The concept of a dry boat......

I don't believe that a "dry" boat exists. Between water ingress and condensation most, if not all, boats will have areas where water collects. The solutions are ventilation and limber (drain) holes. TIH has a few small areas of rot on shelves and wooden partitions. So far the water source has been traced to the existing chain plate installation.


Fortunately solutions are simple and relatively cheap. Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy works well on rotten wood.

Sanding, Sanding, Sandingggggggg......

The after cabin is now sanded and prepped for painting. Least said about sanding a boat the better. Five NFM ports are now installed in the after cabin and one in the forward heads. The plan is to have at least one area on the boat that is clean and habitable. Next week I paint the deck head and some more lockers. After that varnish the wooden bits.

Its lightning season in S. Florida.......

According to Florida Power and Light Miami/Dade was hit by 600 lightning strikes last Tuesday. I know because I was at sea in a 31ft center console trying to catch fish and not be a lightning conductor. Failed on the fish but succeeded in not getting fried.

The experience was a good visual to my recent study of lightning protection of sailboats. This is the lightning season down here and I know of at least three boats that have been hit. The cost of repair varies but seems to average out at $5 below your insurance deductible or $5K which ever is greater.

The current thinking of this issue is somewhat confusing and seems to boil down to;

1. Do nothing and hope.
2. Bond everything (expensive) and hope lightning does not blow your earthing plate out of the hull.
3. Install a dissipator (Forespar Lightning master) or similar.

Suggested reading

Here and here.

Very good source Here

Form follows function.....

The gunwale (aka cap rail) on TIH will need replacing at some stage. At the very least it will have to be removed and re caulked, as there is some evidence of leaking via the screws holding the cap rail to the fiberglass. This project will result in one of the "form follows function" discussions with my wife, Lynne. Teak is nice and looks 'traditional" but it requires - maintenance.

I really like the work carried out on a CSY 44 called "Soggy Paws" where the teak caprail was replaced with a TACO extrusion.

Check out the project here; Soggy Paws caprail

Photo here used without permission, hope Sherry and Dave will not mind.



The idea is posted here as I will need support when the time comes to discuss the project.

Two more NFM ports installed......

For me this is progress.......



I love these ports......BUT......the instruction SUCK.

Some free advice for NFM and all producers of marine (and all) equipment that has to be installed by an end user;

Rule 1: No one involved in the project is allowed to write the manual (after all you understand the fu$%*ng thing, you designed it).

Rule 2: Carry your project around until someone asks "what is that?" Ideally they should have no previous experience in the area where this item is to be used.

Rule 3: Have them work out how to use the item, with minimal assistance from the designer.

Rule 4: Have them then explain how to assemble/work the item to a person who speaks another language. Have that person write the manual.

Most importantly try to stick to one system of measurement (i.e. imperial OR metric).

Other than that, it was a breeze.

New Found Metals Ports.....

First Port installed;






Very pleased, once I worked through the instructions, installation was a snap. (Post updated with better photos).