Galvanic Isolators v. Isolation Transformers

OK, I think I know the difference and this article provides a good explanation. The dilemma is that the Charles Isolation Transformers are expensive and heavy. I will require two, >$1K and 150lbs weight;




A compromise option is a galvanic isolator;




I am leaning towards the Isolator-ProS2 Fail Safe 60A at the moment, which can protect both 30A inlets.

Removable sprit mockup...

I was spending a few days cleaning and tidying the boat (that generally happens when I am trying to work in total chaos, can't find anything and keep falling over half finished projects). In order to kill the monotony I stuck a 2.5" piece of PVC through the bow roller to simulate a removable sprit, and voila;



I will have it manufactured in stainless or aluminum Schedule 80, keeping in mind that 6ft of Sched 80 SS pipe will weigh 50lbs while aluminum will weigh 15lbs - suggestions welcome. I will definitely add a short bobstay and possibly side guys.

Practical Sailor did an article on foil-less furlers this month, well worth a look;

Steering belt and braces......

The steering install is moving along. You may remember that I am installing an Edson Pull-Pull system. This will require turning blocks on the port side, over the original fuel tank. These lead back via the pull-pull conduits to the quadrant.

You may know by now that my approach to "systems' is that "if its worth doing, it is worth overdoing".

This is the core of the bulkhead that the turning blocks could have been fastened to;


This was probably strong enough in its own right to hold the blocks, it was also well tabbed to the hull and jammed between the deck and the hull liner.

Well now it has two 3/16 aluminum plates bolted through either side and bolted to the liner and the aft bulkhead of the fuel tank space (I have no fuel tank there).






Hopefully the blocks will never come adrift, but if they do I suspect I will have bigger issues to deal with than my steering.

120V AC Panel decision......

After the usual faffing about trying to decide on the 120V panel, the decision is made-ish. It will be a blue seas 360 panel as follows;

1. The 120v supply will be from the shore power 1 inlet, via the Mastervolt inverter/charger. This has two 120v outlets;

• Outlet a. Is a "short break" supply which switches over to the inverter in shore power is lost (or not connected). This will feed the 8 breakers on the left of the panel. Mostly small load appliances, used selectively (?) if on the inverter.
• Outlet b. Is the pass through feed to the 4 breakers on the right hand side, via a selector switch. If only shore power 1 is connected the switch will be on the top feed. This will power the water heater and A/C + 2 spare breakers. The MV Combi load shares this supply between the battery charger and the AC load. If I have the luxury of a second shore power (e.g. a split 50 amp) the selector switch will be on the bottom position and feed the 4 breakers directly.

The V and A displays will have selector switch so I can monitor either Shore 1 or Shore 2.

Hope this makes sense!

Reusing old fixtures and fittings...

One of the benefits of working on a "good old boat" is the quality of the wood and general fittings on-board. Spend some time on a new production boat and you will realize that many of the wood panels under bunks, headliners, shelves etc. are designed to the minimum spec.. 1/2" and above marine ply must have been plentiful in the Whitby yard.

I have removed the old chart storage and will be using it as an instrument panel. One of the Saloon chairs will find a new life as the chart chair with the addition of an Attwood Swivl-Eze Adjustable Seat Pedestal.

How big a refrigerator does a sailboat need?

Certainly not one big enough to hold a 200lb Irishman (unless my wife has plans that I'm not aware of). Yes, that's me in the in the fridge removing the gizmos at the bottom.

The W42 has a very nice fridge/freezer molded into the hull liner. Its BIG. From my direct experience women do not like hanging upside down in a fridge trying to recover the last piece of wilted lettuce. On our last boat I got away with reducing the size of the fridge by about 1/2. I am about to do the same on TIH.


The blue bits are layers of Extruded Polystyrene to fill up the void space. Two fiberglass boxes will then be fitted through the existing openings. The extruded polystyrene resists water absorption but I plan to coat each sheet with polyester just in case. I will drill a drain hole in each compartment to allow any condensation to drain away. The boxes themselves will be sealed and not have drains.


Existing freezer


Existing fridge, 32" deep.


Spill over (under) vent at the bottom, designed to be operated automatically depending on temperature. I'm sure it worked at some stage.



Old compressor (in the engine room where the port fuel tank was on many W42s')



New compressor. (behind stove, keel cooled.)