Seeing that this was the first time in 18 years that TIH has moved under her own steam (if only 18ins) this was a sort of momentous occasion.
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Vroom Vroom......
A few weeks ago I had my favorite diving lady Evelyn and her son install my Campbell Sailer propeller. I was just waiting for Guru Jim to get out from under his usual long list of client projects to install my steering pedestal and steering system. As usual, because he treats me as family, I am at the bottom of the list. But today I decided to kick the transmission into gear and see if anything blew up. TIH is securely, I hoped, tied up in her slip;
Seeing that this was the first time in 18 years that TIH has moved under her own steam (if only 18ins) this was a sort of momentous occasion.
Seeing that this was the first time in 18 years that TIH has moved under her own steam (if only 18ins) this was a sort of momentous occasion.
Thursday, April 5, 2012
Titanium Chainplates - the future....
Just read my second magazine article about Titanium Plates and it all seems to make sense.
• High strength to weight ratio,
• Low Density – approximately half the weight of steel,nickel and copper alloys,
• Inherent Flexibility – an elastic modulus that is approximately 55% of steel,
• Extended Fatigue Life – more than twice that of steel,
• Exceptional Corrosion Resistance – resists chlorides, seawater, sour and oxidizing environments,
• Superior Erosion Resistance – erosion corrosion, cavitation and impingement in flowing turbulent fluids,
• Non‐magnetic.
First I pulled the existing chainplates. Not a major job as I had already removed most of my hull panels and when I replaced them I left the chainplate bolts accessible and exposed. Keep in mind also that I have no Mizzen.
The little guy on the right is an upper mast tang.
Before you take measurements off Teds original plans or use one of the plates as a template for the rest, ask yourself the question; "Do you feel lucky, Punk". A lot of the holes line up, some don't.
It will be no fun refilling the existing holes in the fiberglass and re-drilling them.
I will probably order Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with sand blasted finish. Interestingly someone suggested that the polished finish is too shiny while the blasted finish is cheaper and holds the deck sealant better.
Allied Titanium
• High strength to weight ratio,
• Low Density – approximately half the weight of steel,nickel and copper alloys,
• Inherent Flexibility – an elastic modulus that is approximately 55% of steel,
• Extended Fatigue Life – more than twice that of steel,
• Exceptional Corrosion Resistance – resists chlorides, seawater, sour and oxidizing environments,
• Superior Erosion Resistance – erosion corrosion, cavitation and impingement in flowing turbulent fluids,
• Non‐magnetic.
First I pulled the existing chainplates. Not a major job as I had already removed most of my hull panels and when I replaced them I left the chainplate bolts accessible and exposed. Keep in mind also that I have no Mizzen.
The little guy on the right is an upper mast tang.
Before you take measurements off Teds original plans or use one of the plates as a template for the rest, ask yourself the question; "Do you feel lucky, Punk". A lot of the holes line up, some don't.
It will be no fun refilling the existing holes in the fiberglass and re-drilling them.
I will probably order Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with sand blasted finish. Interestingly someone suggested that the polished finish is too shiny while the blasted finish is cheaper and holds the deck sealant better.
Allied Titanium
Bowsprits revisited...
Nothing is a salty as a 10ft bowsprit on a traditional sailing rig..... except when you are trying to maneuver past someones $2m gin palace in a tight dock or paying $2.75 a foot dockage for a stick.
A number of things have changed since Ted designed the original bowsprit; two important ones are;
1. New designs of anchors esp. the Rocna and Manson Supreme. These are differentiated by their wider blade, roll bar and higher weight recommendations. IMHO one 55lb Rocna or 60lb Manson Supreme is the way to go. I would mount a Fortress FX-55 on the stern as a kedge or it could be lead forward as a backup bow anchor.
2. The original bowsprit was deigned to support the fore-stay. If you move the existing fore-stay this will require re-rigging and may mean adjustments to your roller furling and genoa. The new options available for removable roller furling gennakers may change this requirement.
So my thought process is involving towards;
1. A short "stumpy" bowsprit which will allow me to used the existing bow roller and jam the Rocna in place.
On the front of that bowsprit will be a hinged "sprit" to fly the roller furling Gennaker. This will be hinged out of the way/removed when not in use. It will be help down by a removable high spec line bobstay.
The discussion continues.
A number of things have changed since Ted designed the original bowsprit; two important ones are;
1. New designs of anchors esp. the Rocna and Manson Supreme. These are differentiated by their wider blade, roll bar and higher weight recommendations. IMHO one 55lb Rocna or 60lb Manson Supreme is the way to go. I would mount a Fortress FX-55 on the stern as a kedge or it could be lead forward as a backup bow anchor.
2. The original bowsprit was deigned to support the fore-stay. If you move the existing fore-stay this will require re-rigging and may mean adjustments to your roller furling and genoa. The new options available for removable roller furling gennakers may change this requirement.
So my thought process is involving towards;
1. A short "stumpy" bowsprit which will allow me to used the existing bow roller and jam the Rocna in place.
On the front of that bowsprit will be a hinged "sprit" to fly the roller furling Gennaker. This will be hinged out of the way/removed when not in use. It will be help down by a removable high spec line bobstay.
The discussion continues.
Monday, April 2, 2012
Lessons learned......
Smart advice for Capt. Ron
Two lessons from my recent trip;
1. I absolutely, ABSOLUTELY hate in mast furling. Sure its is great when it works, when your sail is new and everything is tuned properly. BUT, eventually this will not be the case. My advice, if you have in mast furling carry a sawed-off shotgun as the ultimate sail furling device.
2. I absolutely, ABSOLUTELY love Rocna / Manson Supreme anchors. I don't even differentiate as they are very similar. Carry one anchor, the recommended size (their recommendations are very conservative i.e. bigger that you would normally imagine). I never understand why people have two small sized anchors on the bow. Their thinking must be that in a blow they can put down a second. Assuming that you do NOT want to drag at any time or that you don't like running around half naked in a rain squall at 3am, why not put down a big mother of an anchor in the first place and stay put. Just MHO. Having to get a boat hook to free 40lbs of sand/mud off the anchor fluke after weighing is a small price to pay and it somewhat reassuring.
Two lessons from my recent trip;
1. I absolutely, ABSOLUTELY hate in mast furling. Sure its is great when it works, when your sail is new and everything is tuned properly. BUT, eventually this will not be the case. My advice, if you have in mast furling carry a sawed-off shotgun as the ultimate sail furling device.
2. I absolutely, ABSOLUTELY love Rocna / Manson Supreme anchors. I don't even differentiate as they are very similar. Carry one anchor, the recommended size (their recommendations are very conservative i.e. bigger that you would normally imagine). I never understand why people have two small sized anchors on the bow. Their thinking must be that in a blow they can put down a second. Assuming that you do NOT want to drag at any time or that you don't like running around half naked in a rain squall at 3am, why not put down a big mother of an anchor in the first place and stay put. Just MHO. Having to get a boat hook to free 40lbs of sand/mud off the anchor fluke after weighing is a small price to pay and it somewhat reassuring.
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