• High strength to weight ratio,
• Low Density – approximately half the weight of steel,nickel and copper alloys,
• Inherent Flexibility – an elastic modulus that is approximately 55% of steel,
• Extended Fatigue Life – more than twice that of steel,
• Exceptional Corrosion Resistance – resists chlorides, seawater, sour and oxidizing environments,
• Superior Erosion Resistance – erosion corrosion, cavitation and impingement in flowing turbulent fluids,
• Non‐magnetic.
First I pulled the existing chainplates. Not a major job as I had already removed most of my hull panels and when I replaced them I left the chainplate bolts accessible and exposed. Keep in mind also that I have no Mizzen.
The little guy on the right is an upper mast tang.
Before you take measurements off Teds original plans or use one of the plates as a template for the rest, ask yourself the question; "Do you feel lucky, Punk". A lot of the holes line up, some don't.
It will be no fun refilling the existing holes in the fiberglass and re-drilling them.
I will probably order Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) Titanium with sand blasted finish. Interestingly someone suggested that the polished finish is too shiny while the blasted finish is cheaper and holds the deck sealant better.
Allied Titanium
4 comments:
If the original chain plates last 25 years or more is the extra expense of Titanium necessary so they can now last 50 years or more?
just a thought.
Yes, But I worry about the one that only lats 10 years because of crevice corrosion. A 30% premium does not appear too for this peace of mind. I will admit to a certain level of neurosis about chain plates.
I'm with you on the titanium. Wish I thought of it a couple years ago before I installed mine. If a stainless plate is gonna fail, it will at the worst time (in a blow) and the ensuing disaster could be cascading (losing a rig). Yes, worth the extra peace of mind.
Actually, Titanium is corrosion free in the natural environment, so titanium chainplates would last virtually indefinitely.
Post a Comment