Converting from a Ketch to a sloop!!!!!!

If only real life was as easy as photoshop?

Painting

TIH as found.


Deckhead painted.


For the aft cabin I used Pettit Semi-Gloss. It seems more forgiving that Interlux Brightside.

Dry boat concept - part two.

If you ever want to test deck leaks on a boat, Miami in summer, is hard to beat. Afternoon rainfall is measured in inches/hr. I had assumed that the few leaks in TIH were the chain plates and the odd cap rail bolt/screw. Imagine my surprise to see a constant stream of water appear in the after cabin (port side, aft). Once the monsoon stopped I inspected the area and could find no obvious source for the leak......until I opened the Gas locker. The photo shows half the water drained away. The locker had filled and the overspill came into the after cabin via a small hole in the bulkhead. That in itself is interesting as this is meant to be a gas tight LPG locker with no leaks to the inside of the boat. Something else for the work list.

The concept of a dry boat......

I don't believe that a "dry" boat exists. Between water ingress and condensation most, if not all, boats will have areas where water collects. The solutions are ventilation and limber (drain) holes. TIH has a few small areas of rot on shelves and wooden partitions. So far the water source has been traced to the existing chain plate installation.


Fortunately solutions are simple and relatively cheap. Git Rot Penetrating Epoxy works well on rotten wood.

Sanding, Sanding, Sandingggggggg......

The after cabin is now sanded and prepped for painting. Least said about sanding a boat the better. Five NFM ports are now installed in the after cabin and one in the forward heads. The plan is to have at least one area on the boat that is clean and habitable. Next week I paint the deck head and some more lockers. After that varnish the wooden bits.

Its lightning season in S. Florida.......

According to Florida Power and Light Miami/Dade was hit by 600 lightning strikes last Tuesday. I know because I was at sea in a 31ft center console trying to catch fish and not be a lightning conductor. Failed on the fish but succeeded in not getting fried.

The experience was a good visual to my recent study of lightning protection of sailboats. This is the lightning season down here and I know of at least three boats that have been hit. The cost of repair varies but seems to average out at $5 below your insurance deductible or $5K which ever is greater.

The current thinking of this issue is somewhat confusing and seems to boil down to;

1. Do nothing and hope.
2. Bond everything (expensive) and hope lightning does not blow your earthing plate out of the hull.
3. Install a dissipator (Forespar Lightning master) or similar.

Suggested reading

Here and here.

Very good source Here

Form follows function.....

The gunwale (aka cap rail) on TIH will need replacing at some stage. At the very least it will have to be removed and re caulked, as there is some evidence of leaking via the screws holding the cap rail to the fiberglass. This project will result in one of the "form follows function" discussions with my wife, Lynne. Teak is nice and looks 'traditional" but it requires - maintenance.

I really like the work carried out on a CSY 44 called "Soggy Paws" where the teak caprail was replaced with a TACO extrusion.

Check out the project here; Soggy Paws caprail

Photo here used without permission, hope Sherry and Dave will not mind.



The idea is posted here as I will need support when the time comes to discuss the project.