Raw water system

This is the main seawater strainer, which feeds the engine and the sea chest . The top of the strainer is above the waterline and can be cleaned out without shutting off the thru-hull.



Initially I was going feed the engine cooling water from the sea chest but after hearing of various issues (thanks Patrick) I chickened out and took a "T" off the main intake directly to the engine. A valve after the "T will allow me to isolate the sea chest in the event of a leak in any of its hoses, therefore permitting the engine to remain operational.

Battery Storage.......

Batteries on a boat need to be low down and strapped down. These things are heavy and if they decide to move about it seldom ends well.

Usually boxes were constructed out of plywood / fiberglass or Roto-molded plastic and these were used to contain the battery. The logic was that any spilled battery acid would be contained by the box.

While I haven't discounted using wet cell technology (e.g. Golf Cart 6V) I am more likely to install AGM batteries. I happen to believe that sealed, maintenance free batteries will be the standard in the future. For that reason I am installing a battery "tray" whose sole purpose is to secure the battery bank in place.




The yellow piece of cardboard is a generic battery outline whose dimensions are the max length of a Group 31 and the max width of a Trojan 6V. The tray can a accommodate 8 group 31 AGM batteries for a total of 840AH.



The spaces in between will be chocked with starboard pieces and the batteries held down by wooden battens bolted down to the edge of the tray with threaded bar.



This is the bracing on the bottom of the tray. It will be supported on wooden beams and bolted into the lead keel. It will also be braced fore and aft and side to side to prevent movement.

Sea Chest, completed....

but not yet installed. Obviously missing its Lexan cover.






The Sea Chest was fabricated out of 3/8" Polypropylene, by Dura-Weld, Inc.
Excellent company to deal with. Gareth was prompt and efficient, knows his business and the project arrived ahead of time and BELOW budget. That's not something that happens too often in the boat business.

Dura Weld
3599 23rd Ave S, #9
Lake Worth, FL 33461
561-586-0180 Office
561-586-0181 Fax
www.dura-weld.com

Sea Chest mock-up..

Yes I know, I'm into mock-ups. If the boat was a cardboard project it would be finished by now. My love affair with mock-ups comes from a long experience with ships/boats where you find yourself asking "how the hell did they put that there?". I worked on one power boat where the hydraulic header tank could only be filled by a size zero supermodel (and I could never find one prepared to fill hydraulic fluid).

So now I use mock-ups. Its saves a lot of cursing.

Need to build a sea chest......

Later Whitby 42s came with a sea chest. This is a great idea as it cuts down on thru-hulls. I am having the usual problems deciding whether I contract this out or try and build one myself. Should it be solid fiberglass or cored? Any other options, Stainless Steel for example?

The renovation plan......

As TIH is pretty "stripped out" I will have to deal with the installation of some major systems. These include (in order of priority);

1. Overhaul all thru-hulls and paint bilge. Possibly install a "Sea chest" and close up some existing thru-hulls.
2. Replace chain plates and reinstall masts. I would like to investigate moving the chain plates to the outside of the hull.
3. Overhaul the fuel tanks.
4. Overhaul water tanks.
5. Re-Plumb the fresh/salt water systems.
6. Install new hatches (already purchased by previous owner).
7. Re-install rigging and winches.
8. Re-install windlass.
9. Re-engine.
10. Re-wire

I think I've just hit phase three of the project.